Hot, Paul and I have tanned another shade darker, but no complaints. Today our route takes us along the tops of the mountains looking down on the descending Cisa Pass and villages along the way. The views are vast, infinite, almost entirely of forest covered mountains and one very small, surviving patch of snow. The signing is good too because we are basically following Club Alpini routes, some of which have been adopted by the VF, but unfortunately this is also another occasion where the absurdity of the offical signing system is all too obvious. In the past Club Alpini has provided additional signs for the VF, but in their own red and white colour scheme – easy to follow and regular - but now we have the expensive, difficult to maintain official signs too, alongside, literally, the original ones!
Club Alpini routes are designed for keen, fit walkers, and are always tough – today's are no exception. Nevertheless, Nellie tackles every challenge thrown in front of her and it is only after our midday break (idyllic field by a fast-flowing river that we ford subsequently) when the official route launches into a series of pointless detours to avoid a quiet, very minor road, that I call a halt. She is tired, showing signs of rubbing from her pack and sweating heavily.
In Pontremoli we discover a far more attractive town than we remembered. In our search for the hostel, we discover the old town, its castle, churches and ridiculously narrow streets where you can literally touch both sides with outstretched arms. The town is named after its trembling bridge, but we walked over it and felt nothing. There are in fact three other similarly old bridges over the river ? Each of which adds to the charm of the place. The architecture is a mixture of Romanesque and other that I haven't the knowledge to identify, but ultimately it is the colours I notice more – stone tones alongside yellows and reds that change with the position of the sun.
The hostel on via Cappucini, just above the railway station, and on the edge of town, is currently being redeveloped and will be an immense complex for pilgrims and seminaries etc. The extensive gardens above it are already planted and will be a welcome retreat in the heat of the summer. The welcome is warm too.
Accommodation – rating Good/PR – 10 euros – horses accepted. Casa Padre Pio da Pietrelcina, 2 via Cappucini 54027 PONTREMOLI 0039 (0)187 830395
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