Morning and Gabriele is waiting for us with more gifts – flowers for Nellie and I (half of which she immediately eats and the other half I stick in her headcollar – she is not impressed), books and some breakfast biscuits. Then he announces that he will walk the first kilometre with us, after we have had coffee and a croissant with him. He refuses to let us pay. In fact he walks the first 3kms with us and then gives Paul a guided tour of the chapel Charevelle while I hold Nellie – a really positive addition because without him we would have walked on by. Then he takes his leave and we say all the things that people say when they are trying to say goodbye and thank you in a way that sounds sincere – someone should create a new vocabulary. Then it's more tomatoes, more small country roads, more walking, but also more sun and the Appenines getting closer, at last producing a positive shape to the horizon. I am almost looking forward to climbing again. Meanwhile, Flea has found out that Nellie can provide a more comfortable ride than Paul's rucksack and rides regularly, until she is spooked by a dog and he is left dangling from the lead we had attached him to. It takes some coaxing to get him back, but by the time we reach Fidenza he is spark out on the top of her pack.
Reaching Fidenza is less simple. Just when we have it in our sights, with only a couple of kilometres to go, the directions tell us to cross a ford where the bridge has been swept away and the recent floods have produced enough water to fill every available space. Fine if you are a fish or have wings, not so good for pilgrims with a horse. Nevertheless, we find an alternative route, one that will also serve other people following us and finding themselves in the same situation, but it adds a few kilometres.
Fidenza is probably our second favourite town after Pavia. Open-aspected with wide streets designed for cyclists and pedestrians and a large central square that invites people in. The kind of place where you can draw a deep breath and let your heart rate slow. The buildings, churches and other, are large, solid, in the main old redbrick and spanning at least 3 centuries. Paul and I spent a number of days here last time (looking for a bike part) and loved it. We also plan an extra day this time, but primarily because we hope to have a meeting with Carla Cropera of the AEVF. Today, we stop off to say hello to her secretary Irene and ask for help with regard to finding a place for us to stay. They try their best, but in the end can only recommend a religious hostel in Siccomonti, 7kms further down the VF route. Not such good news – we have all walked enough – but unexpectedly the perfect solution.
Though just outside Fidenza, Siccomonti is already in a different landscape – gently rolling hills, scattered with small woods and farms and NO TOMATOES. The extra kilometres are a pleasure to walk and when we finally reach Siccomonti church with its small refuge, we find ourselves in a pilgrim Shangri-la. Endless, hock high grass for the horse, a kitchen, beds, showers and a washing machine for the humans! I am probably more excited about this than anything else. Paul and I install Nellie and then ourselves – food, wine, bed.
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