The sun is still with us, Nellie has filled out on hay and flirted with the horses over the fence all night. The roads are good and in spite of the drab tomato culture around us we can see the grey outlines of the Appenines ahead (we will be going over the Cisa pass). Then we come to the ford. In summer the river Noure is probably nothing more than a trickle at this point, but fed by a succession of storms it is now deep and fast flowing. With only the main road and a long diversion as an alternative we decide that we have to get across it, if at all possible. Shoes and socks off, I do a trial run and find that a large section is filled by stones and debris that we can walk over, but in between there are three, unavoidable channels. Two are reasonably shallow and slow-running, the third is over the knees and with a current that I can barely stand in by myself, but could probably manage with Nellie's support – if she gives it. We decide to try. Paul carrying Flea and standing upcurrent from Nellie, so that he can lean on her, and me leading with a hand in her mane to cling onto if I lose my footing. Well, I'm writing now, so it worked. Nellie pausing briefly in the strong current, but more to check out the challenge than anything else. Paul using her as his block and me holding on and hoping for the best. Later, we cross two more rivers, but they are puddles by comparison and we are professionals by now.
Then we reach Fiorenzuola d'Arda. Our intention is to go to a religious hostel and see what they can do for us, but we are stopped on the way. People ask us if they can take our photo all the time, so when Gabriele cycles up behind and stops us we think nothing of it. We listen politely when he tells us about his involvement with various societies, one of which is involved with horses, and agree to wait while he goes to get his camera. When he comes back he has his camera, copies of a book about the town and history for us and for the mayor of Arles (he writes a special message for the latter), flowers for me and a series of postcards that he asks us to send back to him when we can. Then we pose for the photos and put ourselves in his charge. He knows the priest, he will ask if there is room for the horse and us in the hostel. Actually, he seems to know everyone, and our arrival is broadcast across the town before we have even properly entered it. We must be the most photographed pilgrims on the route. At the hostel, where we find out that 25 children from under-priviledged families are fed every night and are currently eating, we are given a film star welcome. Everyone comes out, children and adults, to see Nellie, their first equine pilgrim. She walks calmly through a 5-a-side football game and basks in the glory. Flea behaves, but finally snaps at a child when he has had enough. We are given a patch of garden for Nellie and a bedroom for ourselves and the dog that the priest agrees not to see. Payment is refused (but we give it anyway to support their excellent work ). Once again an overwhelming experience, that still has not ended. I am just getting out of the shower when Gabriele comes back – large shopping bag in one hand. Wine, biscuits, sweets, carrots for Nellie and meat for Flea. «The supermarkets are shut tomorrow.» He tells me, even though it is a weekday.
Later, another pilgrim joins us in the hostel. An Italian, 60 plus years of age, exhausted. He has just walked over 50kms and plans to walk another 40 the next day. I'd like to ask him why, but am not sure I will like the answer.
Accommodation: Rating – excellent/PR – dormitory – 5 euros a night. Horses accepted. Presso il Duomo, don Gianni Vincini 0523 98 22 47
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