14.05.2010 Gropello Cairoli to a wood near St Giacomo – 32km

Small roads, small villages, a long section along the dykes lining the Ticino, a tributary of the Po, massively swollen by the recent rains, lunch in a bar on its banks and then Pavia, never a disappointment, but always a place we wish we had more time to explore. Our entry to the town is over the Ponte Vecchia, an ancient covered bridge that slices our view of the town into framed sections as we pass over, and then into the centre and along a number of quiet streets where people stop to ask where we are going etc. «Bellisimo, complimenti» is a comment we hear often. Pavia is possibly our favourite town, memorable for its architectural features, open piazzas and relatively tranquil atmosphere. Our visit also includes the obligatory ice-cream stop, always our first in Italy and always the best, then we have to head out into the industrial suburbs where everything unattractive but necessary is relegated. Our intention is to reach St Giacomo, where there is an equestrian centre we once stayed in with Lubie (though we are not intending to ask again this time because we sense that our previous welcome had only been because the owners themselves had been away), until the threatening thunder, grumbling over our heads for the past hour, finally decides to go for bust. We are drenched in seconds and have only one alternative – get off the road, get the tent up and get in.