We are walking through the Po valley, a landscape I will never tire of, not only because it is blissfully flat after the mountains, but also because it is so unique. Some may declare it monotonous, but I find infinite variation in the rice fields, cascinas – vast architectural wonders that are now sadly often abandoned – the canals with their sluice gates and the shimmering horizon that comes from water baking in the (intermittent) sun.
Today is one of those rare days when we feel that we have managed to bring real value to the route. Our guide book offers a 22km walk along the SP1 to Vercelli as the only option, but not one we are prepared to risk. If an accident were to occur, even if we were ostensibly not to blame, it would be reasonable to ask why the hell we were there in the first place. So, it is down to us to find an alternative, and incredibly, we do – navigating our way along a series of tracks and minor roads that take us into Sarlasco, and another high-point of the day.
We are used to having frequent and often regular communication with people who buy our books – it is one of the great pleasures (usually, if we have got it right), but we have yet to meet one face-to-face. A pilgrim is a rare sight on the VF, so when we see this one, in Sarlasco where our route meets the VF, Paul shouts out a bon giorno, to which the other replies - «Are you English?»
We see our book in his pouch from 10 metres away and tell him, perhaps rather too enthusiastically, that we are the authors. If he wants to get on his way he is polite enough not to say so. Chris is walking from Pershore to Rome, the culmination of 7 years of preparation. One of a number of goals (raising money for a project in Nepal is another) is to complete the journey at a minimum cost, in terms of accommodation. Not a Scrooge-or poverty based notion, but one that tests both his ability to ask for help and others to give it. Thus far the test has been supremely positive and his concluding statement that «I have learnt that the world is a good place.» also reflects our own experience as pilgrims who repeatedly rely on the generosity of people who have never seen us before.
On a practical level, we also discuss the guide Chris is using – the first edition we produced, which I hope has been significantly improved in the third edition, but I listen to some of his comments and cringe when he asks if we have really done all the routes. Yes we have, but maybe it does not seem like it and I ask him to note down every issue he has with our instructions and data generally.
Our intention had been to walk into Vercelli and try out the religious hostel there, but by the time we leave Chris it is already 5.00 and we have only a realistic hour of walking left. We prepare to sleep under the stars until we spot a village ahead and, inspired by our previous conversation, decide to ask if we can put our horse in the football ground, if they have one, or on a piece of grass where we could also camp.
The village is about 2 kilometres of the officially signed VF route, but everyone knows about it. Heads turn as soon as we walk in and then the questions start. When we explain that we are looking for a place to stay, a woman tells her husband to get on his bike and go ask at the Castello. In fact we don't even get that far because another woman sticks her head out and says that her husband speaks French. A few minutes later Nellie is tethered on the grass behind their yard and we have a place in their barn to sleep. We and our animals are treated like celebrities and in the morning our hosts, Umberto and Louise, insist on us eating breakfast with them. We discuss the effects that mechanisation has brought to the area, a benefit in terms of yield, but a loss for its population. Sali, once a village of something above 800 people has shrunk to 100, with the associated commerce disappearing too. The farm that once employed 8 men all year and up to 1500 during the rice harvest, now only needs two. «There is a very high cancer rate here too.» Umberto tells me quietly. We have seen the bags of chemicals stored in every farm and sprayed into the water. Then it is finally time to say our goodbye's, which takes at least half an hour, and when we say that do not know how to thank them for their generosity they tell us that our visit is a gift they will treasure.
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