We have crossed Turin with a horse. Given the choice I'd rather climb Everest in bare feet, but we survived and came out with a unique view of the city (huge, baroque, beautiful and in places very chic) and the Italian people.
Early, cold, wet start, to beat some of Turin's traffic, though in fact only until we reach the outskirts and then all hell lets loose. People in cars should made to get out and stand next to a busy road on a regular basis just to hear and see what their vehicles do to the rest of the world around. Nellie is bludgeoned into a state of near-terror by the roar of the traffic, thundering lorries, blaring buses and hissing airbrakes. Where we can, we walk on the pavements, dodging the crowds hurrying to work and out of the rain – a crazy situation that has an unexpected upside. In spite of the time of day, the weather and the chaos, people stop to talk to us, admiring Nellie – Bellisimo, que belle – wanting to know how old she is, where we are going and so on. In one narrow street we are stopped by a man driving a white van, who also stops all the traffic behind, to ask the usual questions and then, to our embarassment, insists on us giving us 10 euros. Finally we take it, but only after explaining that it will go towards Anne-Marie's project – an anonymous donor. Later, while buying some bread for Nellie, Flea also gets a handful of dog biscuits from a pet shop owner who discovers him sheltering under Paul's rain cape. Then, after what seems like an eternity, we get into the centre and onto the pedestrian precincts – another world and where we would have loitered had the weather been better. Still, we are able to appreciate the broad boulevards, lined with shops and cafes and an amazing choice of Turin shrouds offered on every street corner. Nellie is harangued by crowds of admirers and takes it all in her stride and finally we break through into the vast piazza in front of the Duomo – an unforgettable experience. We have unwittingly arrived a week after the Pope came to see the Turin shroud and in time to run slap-bang into a huge exhibition event that has closed all our exits. At our wits end, we stop to ask a group of policeman for help, and once again Nellie and this time Paul, under the arm pit of a huge caribinieri, are the subjects of numerous photographs. Then onto the final stage, more roads, then tracks along the Po, which is looking dangerously swollen after the rains (reaching teetering at the top of its banks and bridges) and still more rain from above. It would have been a good day, in the sunshine, but we are tired, cold and after 35km ready to stop. Finally, just when I am not sure we can do another step and the only bed & breakfast establishment we have an address for seems to have vanished into thin air, we see a sign for 'beds' over a pizzeria. Paul, the spokesman in Italy, rushes over and after 5 tense minutes for me returns with the thumbs up. Don't know how we do it, but we have fallen on our feet again. The owner has horses, a space at the back of the restaurant, and time to go and get some hay and food for Nellie. So maybe there is a god after all and maybe he does occasionally take pity on sinners like us and maybe he could just go that one step further and turn off the rain.
Practical Route Info
After Montgenevre the signing is taken over by our 'yellow man' - a familiar figure on the VF, but so much better in this region. The signs are relatively fresh and the signers have really given thought to the position and frequency of the signage. Better still the route respects the need to stay off main roads and difficult intersections (unlike the previous guide options). So far we need to look for only one or two alternatives for horse-riders and perhaps some preferable choices for walkers - for example the railway bridge in Turin - no pavements and no space between people and cars - suicidal.
The VF itself seems to be far more well known than its equivalent in the Aosta valley. People living in the area are aware of it and often know precisely where it runs. The French seem to be the greatest number of users and we are currently following a group from Nice, whose progress is being tracked on Italian TV. We are constantly being asked if we are part of it.
Accommodation is still sparse and not yet as pilgrim-focused as in Spain, but there are a few options and as the traffic increases so will the support.
In brief, a great deal easier to travel on this section of the VF than our previous experience from Aosta onwards. Cannot understand why the focus has been so Swiss-border orientated when this option has so much to offer in terms of landscape, historical interest and good walking.
Accommodation - rating good but possibly beyond the pilgrim budget Via Torino, 235
10090 Castiglione Torinese TO, Italia
011 9601304
No comments:
Post a Comment