03.05.2010 Oulx to Susa 28km

Another tough climb back up to the top of the valley – up and down is all we seem to do – but the yellow man is looking after us. We are taken along small lanes and tracks that lead us past vineyards cultivated on vertical slopes – no risk of mechanism here – and through huddles of houses that show as barely a pin prick on the map. The landscape is a mass of massive wrinkles, like cardboard scrunched up and sprinkled with streams of water in its hollows. Tamed, but barely. I would not miss this for the world. Then, a brief set back when we find that the bridge we need to cross (a substantial roadbridge) has been washed away and the road apparently abandoned. The yellow man forgot about cyclists and horse riders. We have no alternative but to follow a brief section of the SS24, during which a cyclist gestures that we should go on the destroyed route below, prompting a futile, though satisfactory episode of pilgrim-rage during which I imagine a head over wheel spin, accompanied by my explanation that he should try it himself. Finally we enter Susa, with no idea of where to stay and in the pouring rain. There is a St Franciscan convent, but we have vetoed it because our last experience with the Franciscans included (ironically) a refusal to let our dog inside – we slept in the tent outside – but in the end and after some persuasive talk from Paul in the tourist office, a telephone calls reveals that this convent welcomes animals (as per St Francis) and has a place for the horse.

04.05.2010 Susa 0km
A place! A Shangri-la! Nellie is knee-deep in grass, has access to vines if she wants them (thankfully she does not) and more dry bread than she can cope with. Flea is admired, fussed over and allowed into our room, which is warm, en suite and only 30 euros per person. We are staying. It is raining still, Nellie has not had a day off since her injury, we have mounds of dirty washing to deal with and items to replenish.
Items lost to date:
1 Tether stake
Sock several – I blame Flea
1 horse boot
1 dog lead
4 pairs of glasses (two lost, two destroyed)
1 camera
1 T-shirt
1 filling -will try to survive without going to the dentist before we get back.

Accommodation - excellent! Convento San Francesco
I Chiostri Onlus
Piazza San Francesco 3
10059 SUSA TO

Tel.:+39 0122 622.548
Fax:+39 0122 600.047
e-mail: ichiostrionlus@sanfrancescosusa.com