Breakfast with the Klintons followed by a cold and damp start, enhanced by the views and Nellie's epic performance when we ask her to tiptoe along cliff edges and launch herself up vertical rock faces – this is when she is at her best. At her worst she is bossy, bad-mannered and close to her elephant namesake, but we are working on a long-term education-programme. Meanwhile, Flea is changing shape almost as we watch. Gradually his front end is taking on a worringly bull-dog form, which Paul correctly describes as looking like a weight lifter bursting out of his black leotard, but the rest of him – his rear in particular – seems to have a great deal of catching up to do. Having said this, his energy his inspiring. He runs all day and refuses the rucksack, until it starts to rain, when he literally jumps in. So, gradually the team is growing into cohesive unit – Nellie waiting if one of us gets left behind - that accepts and compromises for the strengths and weaknesses of each one. Paul and I, who should know each of these all too well, continue to learn about each other and occasionally protest, but up to this point we have avoided any major clashes. The mountains I am staring at now may change all that. Wisely, Paul has suggested that we buy more clothes before our entry into the snow, because he knows that cold feet are most likely to throw me into immediate depression. While I have set about ensuring that we have enough food and chocolate to feed an army. Tonight we sleep in absolute luxury, beds and clean towels, with our clothes washed and dried.
Chambre d'hote rating: Poor (not for the service but for suitability). Though listed in the PACA list, the owners are not prepared for the pilgrim trade and prefer to have long-term guests. They are prepared to take people off-season, but in essence we advise people to look for other more suitable (large choice) in the village. They will not be listed in our guide.
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