21.05.2010 Siccomonti to Fornovo di Taro 25km

Back in the hills and enjoying every minute. Some climbing, but infinite variation and without the sometimes daunting height and cragginess of the Alps we crossed in France. Alongside Tuscany, this is probably my favourite region. We follow farm tracks through tiny villages where the stone-built houses cluster round narrow cobbled streets and, better still, are occupied. Meanwhile, in the surrounding countryside every tractor seems to be turning hay in fields that rise and fall like solidified waves – a great deal more attractive than the blasted wastes of tomato land. Everything seems to be alive and making a vocal contribution to the world and, best of all, the sun is still shining. We make excellent progress and everything continues to be perfect until we reach Fornovo bridge. We have done this on our bikes before and so know what to expect. As an alternative we look at the river Taro and consider fording it, emminently possible and preferable in summer, but not after the recent storms. We grit our teeth and head into the traffic – Nellie lowering her head for the onslaught before we have even got there.

After the bridge and a few hundred metres of urban chaos, we are in Fornovo old town where the nearby motorway and everything else that comes with it are quickly forgotten. We make our way up cobbled streets towards the Duomo where there is a religious hostel and our second customer! Patrick (on a gap year) has last year's edition, the latest you could buy before this April (given to him as a Christmas present by his parents) and has walked from Canterbury. Hard to describe the thrill of meeting people who have used our guide, particulary when they are pleased with it. We spend the rest of the evening together chewing the proverbial pilgrim cud and getting the details on the recent English elections – incredible (and, I think/hope an improvement).

Accommodation – rating good/PR – very basic, but adequate. Horses accepted. Donation. Il Duomo, via 20 Settembre 43045 FORNOVO DI TARO 0039 (0)525 2218