Before we leave, our host takes us to see his own Merens gelding, the first time we have been able to directly compare Nellie with another of her own breed. He is larger and stockier, though with a finer head. They meet nose to nose and go through the usual equine introduction procedure - invariably noisy and raucous - but for us the most interesting aspect is that in addition to sharing all the physical features of their breed, the gelding also displays many of the less pleasant behavioural traits: principally the bullying, pushy and rough behaviour that I can best describe as 'impolite'. I dislike 'impolite' horses and during our time with Nellie we have managed to teach her some manners, which makes our relationship a great deal more pleasant.
The weather forecast is correct, for the first time since we have been in Italy. It is raining, only finely when we start out, but in buckets within ten minutes of leaving our hostel. Has someone forgotten that June in Italy is supposed to be hot, scorchio, hot? The rain is hammering down, even through the thick canopy of leaves in the forest, hiding what we know must be a dramatic landscape but we are beyond caring and can only slosh on in the hope that the agriturismo in Bardinetto will take us. It does, in fact it is already expecting us because Heidi's husband has phoned ahead – perhaps there is a god, perhaps he is called Mr Heidi. We are offered a self-contained apartment, heated and with an open fire – yes there is a god and I don't give a damn what his name is. Meanwhile Nellie is offered a stable or a tether point in a nearby carpark. We would love to offer her the dry warmth, if only for our own consciences, but know that it is a waste of time because she will refuse to go in. So we tether her outside and, predictably, she is head down and mowing the patch as I write.
Accommodation – Agriturismo Fratelli Oddone - Rating: Excellent/PR – well equipped apartment, inc washing machine! Good value at 60 euros, with breakfast, and 20 euros per person for an excellent meal – probably one of the best we have had since arriving in Italy. Agriturismo Fratelli Oddone - Via Martino, 13 17057 Bardineto
Tel: 019-7907115 - Cell: 328-6423895 - Fax: 019-7907115
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