Breakfast with Paula and her husband Jonnie and then a tough introduction to our daily routine for Evelyn. We are climbing up and down the mountains of the Cinque Terre, not a square centimetre of flat ground and only narrow, stony tracks to walk along. Nellie deals with them stoically and far more calmly than I do, while Evelyn and Paul do their best to support the process – carrying packs when we have to remove them and clearing ground.
In the evening, we find a pleasant hotel for us and illegal space for Nellie in the garden of an unoccupied block of flats. The hotel owner is nervous but seems to be reassured when we say that it is our risk and not his, then we head off into the pleasantly low-key beach resort (something the Italians seem to do so well) for dinner.
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